We build and design your new pond with you.





  Bio Booster

The Bio Booster is a high pressure unit that is typically used with a sand filter or alternatively with a Bubble Bead Filter. Bio Boosters are normally filled with bio balls or any other bio media that will give you good surface area as well as good flow rate through the unit. Remember when you install a Bio Booster inline with all the other filter units that you keep your flow- rate in consideration. The flow through the unit should not exceed 10 000 liters per hour, reason for that is to prevent the bacteria from washing out of the unit.


  Bottom Drain

The Bottom Drain is one of the most important products when planning or constructing a Koi pond. The Bottom Drain is there to help the system to get rid of all the solids or fish droppings as well as leaves from the bottom of the pond. The Bottom Drain is directly coupled to the discharge box or sump from where the pump or the Vortex  will connect. Please remember that the best size pipe to use for the Bottom Drain will be a 110 mm pipe. As the Bottom Drain is not subjected to pressure you do not need to use a class 6 pipe, but use a good grade pipe for the system.

  Bio Box Filters

The Bio Box Filter range consists of four filters. These filters are low pressure and are gravity return back to the pond. These filters are for the smaller fish ponds not exceeding 2 000 liters. All these filters can operate with your normal submersible pumps.


 Bio Combo Filter

The Bio Combo Filter is a compact filter that is a combination of a Vortex Filter with a Bio Box Filter combined. The filter can be operated by means of a submersible pump or a small high pressure pump like the pumps used on swimming pools. The filter work on a gravity return principle using two 50 mm return pipes back to the pond. The filter is suitable for ponds up to 7 000 liters and will operate fine with a 8 Watt or 15 Watt UV Sterilizer. Size of the filter: H=800 mm x W=800 x L=1 500 mm

Small Bakki Shower

The Bakki Shower Filter is a gravity filter returning back to the pond on a gravity system via a 50 mm pipe. The filter is purely a Biological filter that would need clean water either from a Vortex or from the middle water of your pond. The Bakki Filter can handle 7 000 liters of water provided it is clean water. In any filter system you need mechanical as well as biological filtration, mechanical to take care of your solids(fish droppings) and biological to take care of Ammonia, Nitrides and lastly Nitrates. Size with 3 Tiers: H = 1 000 mm x Diameter = 350 mm.


What is it and how does it work?

Bakki Showers allow water to flow into the tier through a spill or spray bar and fall at its own rate through biological filter media. As the water flows through the media, it is exposed to

free- moving air, which keeps the oxygenation of the tank water very high. Bakki Showers also creates a very oxygen- rich environment for the bacteria providing biological filtration, which increases their effectiveness. The most efficient filtration system today is the Bakki Shower design.

As an approach, I would divide all filtration systems into two groups: Long term designs and shorts term designs. Short term designs: Is a filter that will work efficiently for a short period of time and gradually the performance will begin to fail off. The traditional sand or swimming pool filter also known as gravel filled chamber filter best illustrates this design. In both designs, channeling and anaerobic activity become more and more likely over time. Low oxygen levels usually go hand- in- hand with this system and it has been demonstrated that only the top few inches can support aerobic (oxygen loving) bacteria, regardless of overall media depth. The other disadvantage of the sand or gravel filter is the amount of water wasted during cleaning or backwash intervals that can be up to twice a week, depending on the stock rate in your pond as well as the filter system design you use. Other examples of short- term designs are reverse flow chamber filters, biobrush systems, submerged bioball and canister style systems.

  Small Trickel Filter

The small Trickle filter is the same as the large Trickle filter utilize the same fittings, the filter will do 10 000 liters of water. Size: H=1 600 x Diameter of 700 mm at the top

  Vortex Filter

The Vortex Filter is one of the best filters available in the Industry when you are looking for mechanical filtration. With the brushes and the drain facility at the bottom of the filter their are very little work involve to maintain the filter. Other than the odd backwash once a week and cleaning of the brushes three or four times a year there are no other work involve to the Vortex Filter. Once the filter is in place the only other filter needed is a Trickle or a Bubble Bead Filter to do the rest in the system. Size: H=1 500 x  Diameter=900 mm at the top.

The Vortex filter has been developed for the serious koi keeper. It is based on the most up- to- date biological filtration available, together with serious consideration for cost- effective efficiency, flexibility and ease of maintenance. Most filters are design to trap and decompose solid waste. This waste does not disappear, but is converted into soluble pollutants that add to the workload of the filter. The Vortex filter is the easy removal of this waste in your filter system. By removing this waste consisting of fish droppings, uneaten food, dead bacteria, leaves and algae efficiently will provide good quality water and healthy fish. This range of filter is based on the modular Vortex system, thus being flexible enough to cater for different stocking rates, different filter media characteristics and different installation options.

The Vortex filter is suitable for pond volumes of 5000 to 40 000 liters. The filter is 1,100 meters high and has a diameter of 900 mm. These filters can be installed up to four in a row (see attached papers). All Vortex filters work on the principle of protected chamber filtration � the water flow is operated in a way which ensures the biological chambers are free from solid matter. A three chamber system fed from one bottom drain, is designed to cope with 20 000 liters of water. A four- chamber system, fed from two bottom drains, using two sets of pipe work to transfer from chamber to chamber, can handle in excess of 30 000 liters of water. This last system can handle a flow in excess of 20 000 liters per hour. 

Installation Instructions.

Once the combinations and installation option has been decided upon, the following installation procedure should be followed. First, select the site and dig the required size hole, taking cognizance of the desired water levels in the chambers in relation to that of the pond. The water level in the Vortex filter chamber should be 50 mm below the top lip when the pond is at its ideal level. Ensure that the soil at the bottom of the hole is compacted and check the levels again. Place the filter lid on the filter to prevent any distortion and position the filters, ensuring that they are level before connecting the pipes as well as the flushing/drain pipes. The highest point of the flushing/drain pipework should be at least 150 � 200 mm below the operational water level of the filer system. Dry river sand or good soil can be used to back fill the hole up to the top of the ground level. Make sure before you filled the hole that you check the system to make sure that there are no leaks. The Vortex filters can stand as high as 600 mm above ground level if need be. The support ring for the brushes is there for a dual purpose. It allows for the filter to be installed above ground level and also acts as a support surface for the pipe work that holds the brushes

 Stainless Kit For Vortes Filter

There is a stainless steel kit available for the standard Vortex Filter that you can convert the filter into a Moving Bed Media Filter. This modification is making the highly successfully filter even better and by looking at the cost of other filters available on the market you are paying a fraction of the price for the same results.

  Pond Pumps (Submersible)

Choosing the right water pump for your pond can make all of the difference in the world. Just because a pump may cost less to buy, it is not always the way to go.

The most important thing to remember is the electrical usage when looking for a water pump for your pond.

In order to maintain a healthy environment for your Koi pond or water garden, you MUST run your water pump through your filter 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

So it is important to pick the right water pump for your Koi pond or water garden. Water pumps have variances in electrical usage and electrical costs.

The Benefits of Submersible Pond Pumps.

For understandable reasons, a submersible pump derives its name because it is designed to be placed in the pond, and submerged under the water.

Submersible Pond Pumps are the easiest of all pumps to install. Installations require no more than attaching a hose to the waterfall, or to a submersible filter, and then just drop the submersible pump in the water and plug it in - and you�re ready to do.

Submersible Pond Pumps range in size, or gallons per hour, from 50 GPH all the way up to 50,000 gallons per hour, but for most ponds - pumps anywhere from 350 GPH to 4000 GPH will be sufficient.       


 Pool Pond Spa also stock a range of good Koi food. For more information on the food feel free to contact us. We also stock Bio Zyme for the use as a water enhancing product enriched with enzymes for good colonization of bacteria in the filter system


How to Test Koi Pond Water

The moment you have decided to introduce a koi into your garden pond or the drawing room tank, you have taken every responsibility to nurture it with utmost care. The concept of care, over here, goes far beyond the

arena of simply feeding and putting enough waterweeds in the pond to provide oxygen. A responsible koi keeper must be smart enough to understand the pond water chemistry and the relevant science.

Before bringing the cute kids to home, ensure that you are totally equipped will full range testing kits and measuring meters. Prevention is always better than cure. Kits for measuring the scale of pH, ammonia, nitrite and temperature are of prime significance, while kits for measuring the scale of alkalinity, salinity, nitrate and dissolved oxygen are moderately essential, while again the kits for measuring the scale of chlorine and hardness are of low significance - yet nice if you have. And lastly but chiefly the pond must be well equipped with high quality filtration mechanism. These are doubtlessly the vital things, but above all the most important tool is the owner's technical knowledge regarding the proper use of these kits and regarding the desirable level of the parameters.

Assuming that the koi keeper has got every measuring facility including a sound know-how, let's skip off to a more technical part - - the desirable scale of the parameters. Any significant deviation from the water quality parameter base line may be disastrously dangerous for the koi. Although it is next to impossible to accurately fix all the deviations but controlling the most significant parameters are really essential.

The desirable base lines are:
PH level = 7.5 - 8.5
Hardness = 50 - 180 ppm
Alkalinity = 120 - 180 ppm
Ammonia = zero is the best, because besides poisoning it blocks the oxygen transfer from the fish's gills which is a painful issue.
Nitrite = 0 - 4ppm
Nitrate = 0 - 200 ppm
Temperature = 26o - 27o C
Dissolved oxygen at a temperature of 50oF - 9mg/lt. 

Once such a baseline is prepared, the rest are laid on the shoulder of water testing kits and measuring meters. The kit contains a full set of water testing peripherals such as test tubes, holding trays, computer-analyzed color cards, instruction manuals. Parameters like certain salts, dissolved oxygen, PH, alkalinity and salinity are measured by the meters meant or specific purpose.



Pool Pond Spa also stock a range of Koi Medicine for the treatment of fish. For more information on medication feel free to contact us. We also stock Bio Zyme for the use as a water enhancing product enriched with enzymes for good colonization of bacteria in the filter system



A pond with clear water is an attractive feature in yourgarden, which brings many hours of enjoyment and relaxation. A green pond is unappealing to look at and is difficult to determine whether your fish are diseased or if they have damaged themselves.Algae also pose a threat to your fish as it starves them of essential oxygen they require.

How it works.

An Ultra Zap U.V Sterilizer will maintain a clear pond throughout the year without the use of chemicals. The unit works by exposing the phototrophic micro-organisms (free floating single celled algae) to a dose of U.V. radiation. This destroys and prevents the regrowth of the phototropic micro-organisms.

Safe to use.

Ultra Zap U.V. units have no side effects on the inhabitants of your pond or environment. If algaecides are used, you have the risk of over-treatment and/or residual chemical build up in your pond. The inhabitants, fish and plants, of your pond are to some degree sensitive to algaecides. With the use of an Ultra Zap unit you stand no risk of this.

Choice of unit.
There are four units available, 8 Watt, 15 watt, 30 watt and 55 watt. The table below provides a guide to which U.V. unit your pond will require. The use of a quartz sleeve is often recommended with the use of U.V. units, but for the reduction of algae it is not necessary. Therefore the Ultra Zap Pond unit does not incorporate a quartz sleeve.


8 Watt 6 000 Litre 40 LT/M
15 Watt 15 000 Litre 60 LT/M
30 Watt 30 000 Litre 140 LT/M
55 Watt 55 000 Litre 300 LT/M

Easy to install.

The Ultra Zap U.V units are easily installed into your existing pipe work or into a new system. When using filters with gravity feed returns to the pond the U.V unit must be installed on the inlet to the filter as not to restrict the outlet flow, which can affect the efficiency of the filter. It is recommended to use a mechanical pre filter or strainer before the U.V. unit as to prevent the large dirt particles entering the U.V. unit, which will reduce the performance of the tube. When using a sand or disc filter, install U.V. unit after such units. Always install U.V units with the correct flow of water passing through the unit. Ball valves installed on the U.V. pipeline must be before the unit as to prevent pressure build up in the unit. Mount U.V units horizontally with the inlet and outlet facing upwards as this prevents air locks and the tube will always be totally surrounded by water, therefore the water will be exposed to the U.V rays for a longer period. Mounting horizontally also prevents faulty electrics. Install unit with unions on the inlet and outlet. Electric connections should be connected by a qualified electrician and must be wired through circuit breaker/earth leakage system. Protect the U.V unit from rain and irrigation systems in gardens.